Running the Cumbria Way

Last week I had the opportunity to run The Cumbria Way with my friend Greg who I met during the Cotswold Century 100 miler. He lives in Cornwall and also helped crew me at the Arc of Attrition. I hadn't spent much time in the Lake District National Park other than a miserable Lakeland 100 in 2014 and then a couple runs around Ullswater. The place is beautiful and I actually fit in there being more of an outdoorsy type person. The Cumbria Way is a "national trail" that runs from Ulverston in the south straight through the middle of The Lakes and finishes about 75 miles later in Carlisle. We planned to split it up between three days with possible higher elevation deviations from the traditional route bagging some bigger fells depending on how the weather was and how we felt. We had two hotels booked and planned to take the train back to the start where the car was.   

I left the house after dropping the kids at school on Friday, plan was to pick Greg up at Manchester Airport (he was flying from Newquay Cornwall), then drive to Ulverston and start running. Travel went well with only a bit of bad traffic, took a few wrong turns, etc but we made it in the end although a bit later than planned. We payed for parking for the weekend and were shortly on our way. 

 We initially planned on having our baggage transported from hotel to hotel but in the end it would've been logistically a pain so we opted to run with everything. Everything being pretty much nothing! It was our usual required race kit but I added a pair of boxers, socks, toothpaste in a ziploc, brush, sudocreme in a ziploc(for chafing), watch and phone chargers, a couple extra softflasks, and a water filter just in case. Keep in mind normal race kit requires waterproof jacket/pants, windproof jacket/pants, spare long sleeve, hat, gloves, and a few emergency items we were pretty set with very little and it was awesome! Reminded me of my backpacking days. We could always dry things out and wash things at the hotels if need be. Greg thought I was nuts only bringing one pair of running shorts, the ones I was wearing, and only one spare pair of socks! In the end it was actually perfect! 

The start in Ulverston

 Light and fast we took our time, this wasn't a race and we were in no hurry. Probably took it too slow actually especially with our late 330pm start, we did have light on our side though. Greg wasn't feeling the greatest, I knew he had some health issues last year and today I got the full low down. He had had an intense chest pain which ended up being a blood clot in his chest. It took a long time to find out what it actually was but now he was on a cancer drug/blood thinner. He was administered it the other day and it can dusrupt his sleep initially so he was not 100% he wasn't about to stop though so we just took it easy. 

 We worked our way through fields as we left the low elevation and the seaside and progressed into the fells. The cool thing was we'd pass through villages and towns and were able to get food etc. if we needed it. This was great considering we definitely wouldn't make it to the hotel before the pub closed! 

 The terrain changed drastically as we ran alongside Beacon Tarn, the hills grew bigger, steeper, and the terrain more mountain-like. That being said the fells are such a unique environment. I still can't wrap my head around them. It's rocky and rugged, and crystal clear creeks seemed to flow from no where (referred here as becks and gills I believe), but all the trees are hardwoods. No pines. I always expect conifers after living in the western USA and also everything is so green; mosses, trees, grassy hills. Also sheep everywhere! 

As we descended to Coniston Water (one of the long and narrow lakes) we had our first high route option to make at Torver. We decided to keep to the standard route because it would've added significant time to our day with a lot more vert and maybe a few more miles. Already running late best not to let it get dark as we opted to leave headlamps behind. We saw more and more walkers (hikers) as we got closer to the town of Coniston, the start of the Lakeland 100. We called the hotel to inform them we indeed were coming but would be in about 9pm or so and had "dinner" from a corner shop; coke, chips, a vegetable samosa. The odd thing was I wasn't actually that hungry despite travelling all day and having run about 13 miles.

After a short break we headed out towards Great Langdale, a giant meadow where our hotel was. Into the fells we went, Greg pointing out high peaks as we ran along. Fells are very different from mountains. They are relatively low elevation but can be very rocky and steep or covered in grass and bogs. Any "trail" is more of a route, I'd guess rarely maintained as compared to trails in the US, and many times go straight up, no switchbacks! The Cumbria Way was a trail that went from roadsides and lanes to narrow singletrack paths, sometimes maintained others not. It also is somewhat signed. We were expecting it to be better signed in all honesty but with a map and two GPS watches we only took a few wrong turns! The closer we got to Langdale the more people we saw, much like Coniston. Langdale though was only a few small villages and bunch of camping it seemed surrounded by towering fells.

The clock was ticking and we strolled through the valley anxiously awaiting the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. We had wanted to stay the Old Dungeon Ghyll but it was booked. It's the classic old school climbers pub and Greg's girlfriend's dad has a tankard behind the bar! The place was and is a hub of history for climbing and fell running. The New Dungeon Ghyll was from I believe 1862 and the Old Dungeon Ghyll referred to them as "the interlopers" being a newer pub when it was first built ha ha ha!!!! 

We arrived shortly before 10 pm, checked in, showered, and slept. 27 miles. 

We woke and I had a big full english breakfast with veggie sausages, I actually had eggs for the frst time in a long time, we were on our way by 9am I think. No rush once again. We had decent weather so far, cloudy and 50's. Cool enough that if you stopped and were sweaty you'd get a chill but not too hot when moving. Temps were great and we didn't need to be too concerned about dehydration. At the end of Great Langdale we came to a dead end and the only way was up. We had a pass to get over and then a long descent to Derwentwater, another lake, and at the head of it Keswick, a much bigger town about half way in the day's run where we planned to have lunch, stop at an outdoor store, and then continue on. 

Stake Pass top right corner 

Looking back down Great Langdale

Climb up Stake Pass

Up Stake Pass

We climbed fern lined singletrack and uneven rock slab stairs up to Stake Pass, then through grassy hills the single track snaked around the topography until a steep switchbacked descent down Stake Beck. We passed a couple backpackers as we took short quick steps down the steep rocky trail. Looking back up Stake Beck transformed into a huge cascading waterfall until it joined with Langstrath Beck, a much wider water flow at the base of the valley. We missed a bridge and had to backtrack a bit through boggy terrain getting wet feet for the first time. Rocky mellow trail with streams running sthrough it now descended the valley as we ran by walkers and wild swimmers. 

Stake Pass

Down into Langstrath

Down, down, down we ran admiring the high fells above us. Soon we were running into Stonethwaite, Rosthwaite, and into Borrowdale the heart of fell running in the Lakes. We ran along narrow lanes and more built up paths, then into the hardwood forest as we approached Derwentwater. High up you could see walkers lining up hiking Catbells, a shorter and easily accessible fell overlooking Keswick. 

 Into Keswick we arrived buzzing with traffic, buses, tourists. It was busy with walkers and sightseers. We went to the grocery store cafe and had baked potatoes for lunch and refilled our water. Then on to Kong Running, a running and climbing shop in town that Greg said I had to see. It had an insane amount of trail and fell running shoes, not to mention all the race vests and accessories you could dream of. This was where I dream of working. Not that my current shop is inferior this place was a mountain shop. We ooood and ahhhhd at the shoes you only see online, I poked and prodded, flexed and bent different models. I've always wanted a pair of fell shoes but really don't have the terrain to warrant them. Fell specific shoes have a very aggressive tread, up to 8mm lugs, and usually have minimal cushioning with a snug precise fit; fell running terrain is usually steep, many times no trail, can be boggy and wet, ankle deep grass, slippery rocky scree. So, a precise fit with maximum traction is crucial. 

Kong Running

On we went after buying a few energy bars. We still had another 15 plus miles to run to Caldbeck with a high route option. Shortly we were out of the city and going up. Greg's ankle had been bothering him but he kept on going. This was a short section I remembered from the Lakeland 100. We came to the cut off for the climb up Skiddaw, one of the bigger fells in the area. He insisted we go up it because the views are epic and we'd had decent weather so far. The route switchbacked heavily and ascended into a cloud, aka the clag. Clag is the term used for limited visibility, possible rain/sleet/snow/drizzle, wind, etc. You never what you're going to get! 

Looking up Skiddaw’s first of many false summits

Looking down on Keswick


Last views of Keswick and Derwentwater

Photo does the gradient zero justice! 



Up, up, up again as the visibility slowly diminished. Greg said the grade was at 30%. Steep and unrunnable we power hiked our way up and our rain jackets came out as the winds and rain increased, so much for the epic views! After a false summit, Skiddaw Little Man, we crested Skiddaw rolling on through to the descent. Going down was just as bad as up; steep loose rock. Runnable yes but we didn't want any injuries so took it easy. The weather soon improved as we left the clag, we could see our next turn and Skiddaw House, a hostel in the middle of nowhere we had considered staying at. 

Descent 

What we came down, at least what’s visible! 

Gravel road way at the bottom 

Onto a gravel road we ran comfortably for a bit until our next off route option presented itself. What looked like a beat up drainage running through boggy grass was our route up to Knott via Little Calva, a fell that cuts the corner of where we wanted to go. Unrunnable boggy, ankle deep soft grass was not fun to say the least. Feet were wet again and we slowly ascended into the clag. Below we could see the sea but not anymore! Tromping through the classic fell bogs soon it transformed to slate like rock, then finally down again, the grass returned and it was slow going. 

Climb up to Knot


Normally you view the sea from here! 


Cloud level


Looking down towards Caldbeck

Lingy Hut

At some point we connected back to the traditional Cumbria Way and ran past the Lingy Hut, a bothy, or rural shelter for anyone to use. Bothies are usually old shepard huts or hunting shacks. Minimal maintenance, no facilities. Basically somewhere to hide from the weather. Sometimes they'll have a fireplace and plywood benches to sleep on. I poked my head in, took a photo, and we continued on. We were running along an obvious path now with one more fell to top out on before descending to Caldbeck where we'd spend the night in hotel. 

Great view from High Pike

Topping out on High Pike the clag was minimal and we could see the cloud line separating the bad from the better. In the distance we could see Caldbeck as well. Watches said we had about 4 miles, all downhill, away we went. Easy smooth sinlgetrack and dirt paths made for comfortable running after a long day. 

Final descent to Caldbeck

Soon we were passing through farm fields and along country lanes. A wrong turn chatting probably added a mile but we were sticking to roads now so no big deal. Soon we rolled into Caldbeck and to the Oddfellows Arms. 

We checked in and immediately sat in the busy Saturday night pub before they stopped serving food. Plant based eating out the door I ordered fish and chips and had a couple beers. We had just finished a 34 mile day. We ate and retired to our rooms to try to relax and get some sleep. I organized my kit, washed my shorts in the sink, and hung any wet stuff up to dry a bit. Fortunately my room had a fan so drying shoes and shorts was easy. I had considered using the hairdryer! I thought about going down for another beer but opted out. Better to try to sleep, the previous night I slept poorly due to our late arrival. 

We met in the pub at 8am in time for breakfast. I had a full english breakfast with veggie sausages and way too much coffee. Greg had the same but with normal sausages. I had gotten up early and my kit was all packed and ready to go, not much of a task when you've got hardly anything! Today we had 15 miles to Carlisle, a bigger city. We were out of the fells and just followed the River Caldew the entire way. 

This last 15 miles was shit. We both agreed if we were to do it all again we'd skip this part! It was all gradual downhill but wet, slippery, muddy, overgrown trails and tracks through fields. No fun. Some so overgrown that it was unrunnable. 

Landslide 

Wet and overgrown 

We did see a couple castles, and the river was very scenic, but the running was miserable. We were happy to hit the outskirts of the city and run on roads. Once in Carlisle we meandered through the city on the formal route finishing at the tourist info building. We were done. 

Done! 

 We sorted our train out, had some food, and the travel began. 2 hours of trains and 3 hours of driving. I dropped Greg at Lancaster train station as he knew I needed to get back. He'd catch a train to Manchester, spend the night, and then catch a flight home the following day.

 All in all a fun adventure. It was different not racing. It was fantastic to finish the day at a hotel and be able to resupply at pubs and shops along the way as needed. Very different from my days backpacking in the USA. As I've gotten older I definitely appreciate going a little less dirt bag! 

The Cumbria Way with a Skiddaw side trip: 

77 miles, 11,000 feet of climbing

Life has been pretty crazy lately with my daughter's epilepsy and seizures becoming more frequent. Then add in helping her with her school work, which normally ends up being 'dad does it for me.' Then I need to figure out how the hell to submit it when she has no idea what any of her passwords are. Just a nightmare. So is the life with a kid with special needs. You don't give up though. Ever. 

Weather has been shit. We had a “heat wave” of 80’s and humid and it felt great, just like home. Now we’ve returned to 60’s, clouds, random rain. Shittiest summer so far I’d say. 

I’ve taken a step back from martial arts. Honestly kind of losing interest. I’m not a fighter anyway, however there are obviously other mental benefits too. Been enjoying being home and being able to ride bikes with my son and run, even if it is in the garage. JKD just seems to drone on without any new goals and eskrima I just want to focus on curriculum for my second degree black belt rather than do new things. Also my morning habit of practice has gone away as I need to keep an eye on Annabelle. No more early mornings which I love. 

 Since Crown King way back when I've slowly been becoming more consistent with training. No main goal yet other than the Arc of Attrition in January. I probably say that every blog! Anyway, I ran the Wyre Forest Half marathon a couple weeks ago. I hadn't ran it in years due to conflicts with other races and me shying away from shorter faster races. Training has mostly been shifted to the treadmill in my garage. Huge thanks to my parents for the birthday money towards it this winter. It's nothing fancy and I bought it used but it ticks the box for training perfectly. Not only am I home more and available more if needed but it's eased me back into more faster running which I'm thoroughly enjoying. It was the piece of my training that was missing as well so my fitness will improve dramatically. Besides it's really fun being the fast old guy. Yeah it's kind of boring but it works well considering the situation I'm currently in. My son will usually ride the turbo trainer next to me for a bit as well so he's at least exercsing too. I'm still getting outside though for my Monday long run and usually a Saturday morning before work so I'm not totally stuck inside. 

P

 Wyre Forest Half was super fun. It's a trail race thats deceivingly hilly and can be really muddy and hot. I finished pretty much the same time I ran 6-7 years ago so no complaints. I felt strong the whole race which was a huge confidence boost. It was ideal conditions this year, cool and dry. I finished 2nd, again! Some hotshot young kid always shows up! To be fair he was a 2:30 marathoner and half my age so no complaints! Best part was finishing and chatting with other runners, many of which were customers from work. 

Up next? This weekend I'm meeting a friend from Cornwall in the Lake District to run the Cumbria Way. 74 miles through the center of the Lake District National Park. Splitting it up between three days with options for "high routes" off the traditional route if the weather is good. Should be awesome. Day one around 25 miles, day two 36, day three an easy 15 to the finish. Vert will vary significantly depending on high versus low routes. Some people go to therapy, some drink, others have friends.  Me? I run. Can’t wait.

And everything seems to already threatening to be overgrown! The trails are fairly dry and green. My quad issue seems to be going away finally and I’m increasing my running. The bluebells have come and gone as well as the white flowers of the wild garlic. It’s amazing how fast it all changes. One reason why I hate to take time off, I haven’t been to the Wyre Forest for a bit, I’m sure it’s fully transformed from winter by now, the ferns beginning to mature and carpet the forest floor. 

This post will most likely be more photos than words as I don’t have much to say! 

Wild garlic

River Severn in Stourport

Ribbesford singletrack

And off to Scotland we go! Heading to Prestwick to visit Lauren’s family. Hoping for a big long run as my leg is allowing it finally. I made it happen and need up on a portion of the West Highland way.

I woke at 4am to walk to the train station in Prestwick, a bus was provided to Glasgow due to construction or something, no big deal. In Glasgow an early walk through the city to Glasgow Central Station and I’m soon on a train meandering through the city heading into the highlands. I arrive in Balloch, orient myself and find the bus station. Patience is paramount in these endeavors. Nothing is open and all I’ve got is running kit. I’m a bit chilled but at least it’s not raining! Turns out since it’s a holiday the bus schedule is not normal. So more waiting ensues. I don’t even know how much time has passed I just bide my time until it arrives.

I believe after about  5 or 6 hours of travel I’m at my destination in Balmaha! Patience pays off. And soon I’m on the West Highland Way along Loch Lomond.

 
Symbol for the West Highland Way 

Boats moored in Loch Lomond

Pub along the trail unfortunately no time to stop! 

West Highland Way

Loch Lomond 

Detour time! Going up!

About 7 miles in I took a detour off the WHW to climb Ben Lomond, the southern most Munro in Scotland. A Munro is any mountain over 3,000 feet. The highest being Ben Nevis which I’ve also been up. 

View down from part way up Ben Lomond 

Trail up

Took me just over a hour to reach the summit. Unfortunately it was fairly socked in. Wind was blowing and soon a light rain started. Really no complaints because I’d had great weather up until now. I got a tiny bit wet but lower down it stopped and I dried out on my run back to Balmaha. 

Lame selfie on the summit

I returned the same way I came hoping to get a beer at the pub and some hot food. Unfortunately I was tied by buses! I got back and waited, and waited, and waited. No bus. It never arrived. So in anticipation of a late but I lost time I wanted in the pub! The next bus arrived and food and beer less I was. Maybe in Glasgow I can get some food. Good or bad from Balloch the trains all lined up perfectly and I had no opportunity to eat! I had snacks and junk with but after 23 miles and 5000 feet of vert I wanted a meal. No luck. 

I arrived in Prestwick at about 8pm and walked myself to the grocery store, bought a pizza, and walked to the house. Grabbed a beer from the fridge. Oh well. I guess I. Saved some money! Long day out but as always well worth it!

Morning run in Prestwick 

Snuck out a couple days later for an easy early four miles. Nice to get out but there’s nowhere to take a dump! I’m hesitant to run due to this! Anyway, we leave in the morning and then as of Monday back to normal.

So here we are. Craving a race. Still no official 2024 plans. However I did sign up for the 2025 Arc of Attrition. It’s been taken over by UTMB which I’m not sure I like or not. The price has gone up, there are more aid stations, and more people. I don’t know, what I do know is I want sub 24 hours! 

Bluebells in Shrawley Wood

I keep looking back at this race in Bulgaria. 100 miles in a very mountainous region. A Hardrock 100 qualifier, and extremely affordable considering the economy there! A quick calculation and it appears entry, flight, car hire, and accommodation would be under £500! And that’s not dirt bagging it! Only hesitation is this quad issue.

Giant Sequoias in Shrawley

I’ve returned to my usual physio and she stabbed me with 5 needles, and over 40 minutes manipulated them. I’m running yes, but still haven’t gained confidence in my leg. There’s still a bit of tightness there. Kind of in limbo still, not ready to commit to anything. 

White flowers are all wild garlic, it reeked, but in a good way

After Arizona I’ve kind of lost my motivation for martial arts. I miss having a crew of people like my bike friends and spending time with my son Colby bike racing reminds of all that. I’d rather spend the nights I normally train martial arts helping him get better at bike racing, especially if I’m going to commit to a full blown race bike for him. Since getting my second degree black belt in JKD we haven’t had much new content and classes just seem to be a lot of helping others. I enjoy that but want to progress my skills too! I don’t know, maybe I’m done with it.

Single track running in Ribbesford Wood

Well I guess for now I’m an exerciser and not training. However, looking at the long game, Tor des Geants 2025 is really really consuming my mind as well as the idea of a 200 mile race.