Thursday, January 27
I wake up as normal and get the kids situated and ready for school. Breakfast, lunches, dressed, a typical morning. I get the kids off to school and I throw together any last bits I need for my weekend away in Cornwall. I’m staying at an old friend’s house who I haven’t seen since living in Flagstaff. James moved his family to Cornwall during lockdown from the US. Why Cornwall? Because it was the warmest place in the UK! We met via mutual friends and the Northern Arizona Cycling Club. We hadn’t seen each other in around twenty years. I was excited to reconnect and meet his family. The drive was good, I’ve always enjoyed long drives, and took about 5 hours.
On the way down James got in touch asking if I could pick up his wife from the bus station in Helston as he wouldn’t be able to. she’d been in St. Ives for work, she’s a novelist and educator. Of course I can get her, I’ll be driving right by anyway. Elisabeth and I were introduced via text and I get a post code to put into the sat nav. Soon the roads narrowed to dirty, winding country lanes and my internal compass was thrown off as usual. I made my way to Helston with instructions to pick Elisabeth up at the Seven Stars Pub, she said there’s parking out front and she’ll be outside in a red bobble hat. A few wrong turns and finally I drive up the high street in Helston scanning for the pub. I pull off and Elisabeth hops in the car. Her American accent sounds foreign to me and I’m bombarded with questions of excitement! She’s a very talkative person with an extremely positive energy. We get to know each other while continuously missing turns on the country lanes heading to Mullion Cove where her, James, and their two wonderful kids, Snowden (10) and Olsen (7) have settled.
Polurrian Cove, a short walk from James’ and where he did a lot of his Channel Swim training
The village they live in is tiny. One pub and a relatively new corner store appear to be the only things there besides homes. We get to their house in a small neighborhood and I’m told the ocean is “right there, however you can’t see it because it’s shrouded in “mizzle,” mist/drizzle, however the view is usually fantastic. It’s a very rural place with no public parking so tourism is very very limited in Mullion. We’re greeted by James and the kids, everyone happy to see their mom, we’re American so no “mum” here, and to meet someone new ready to run 100 miles along the coast path.
I get settled and we all continuously chat and get to know each other and reacquainted. Soon we take a walk to the beach and the Southwest Coast Path of which I’ll run by tomorrow afternoon. It’s a five minute walk and we are on a fairly private local beach at Polurrian Cove. I say private as there’s no public parking making access very difficult for those other than the locals. We wander along the Coast Path for a bit, over a headland, and into Poldhu Cove, then cut across some fields back home. It’s beautiful here, the ocean is fantastic, even in the mizzle!
The evening progresses and James has made a fantastic lentil based pasta that we all devour. We chat more about everything from the US to differences here in the UK. We laugh as they pickup on all the British phrases and words I’ve totally assimilated to! Off to bed at a reasonable hour, we’ve got a race to run.
Friday, January 28
Up as usual, coffee, breakfast, etc. Everything is pretty much in place and ready to go. James will be crewing me for the whole night and my friend Greg, who I finished the Cotswold Way Century with, will be joining him around 5pm or so. He lives nearby in Falmouth. James has walked the entire race route, Greg has ran it. Both have endurance backgrounds. Greg being an ultrarunner himself and James having a swimming and cycling background. How does swimming relate? Well James swam the English Channel last year! They think I’m crazy running 100 miles, swimming the channel!? That’s crazy!
James drives me to the race finish in Porthtowan on the north coast where I’ll get checked in and then take a coach to the start in Coverack on the south coast. There is limited parking there so no spectators are allowed at the start. Eventually, after milling about in a cool breeze, we board the coaches and we are off. I keep to myself as usual and watch the scenery go by. Soon we are unloading and I pace back and forth yet again, trying to keep warm. I recognize a few higher profile runners.
Someone is interviewing a handful of runners, presumably the prospective top ten, the wind and crowd muffle the sound and I continue to pace for warmth. After what seems forever we are all called to gather at the start and the countdown has begun.
The start, me in the blue long sleeve
The start was like any other start, just happy to be running! There’s really no hole shot or group way off the front. Everyone settles into their pace. However, the front of the pack did take a wrong turn within 1/4 of the start and had to pass everyone! I’m having a hard time recalling the beginning of the race. I remember tight technical singletrack that was very runnable. The views over the Atlantic Ocean we fantastic; rugged cliffs, crashing waves, caves, and sandy beaches. The trail was etched into the hillside that many times dropped off steeply to the water. Route finding was far easier than I was expecting, well, at least for now. I felt like I was within the top 10 or 15 and we all kind of went back and forth as people tried to settle into an appropriate pace. Running a bit quicker was fun, and most people I talked to agreed that we may as well run faster now, knowing that everyone slows down at night. Not just because of the darkness but the trail becomes significantly more technical and difficult to move over.
Me and a guy named Steve
I didn’t have a map, I didn’t know the towns and checkpoints well. I just ran knowing that within 7 or so miles I’d have food and water waiting for me. I hardly ever looked at my watch anticipating a break. It was weird. I just ran as I felt. Usually I’m looking to see how far to the next brief stop. I soon recognized Polurrian Cove, the one part of the course I’d been on last night with James and his family. Shortly after I ran through Poldhu Cove and the extent of my course knowledge was soon over.
On we went up, down, around, in, out. Coves, tiny beaches, rolling hills, rocky drainages. We ran across a sandy beach, Loe Barr, trying not to get sand in our shoes, then once back up high we could see an enormous expanse of white sandy beach that went on forever over the green blue waters. What a beautiful place. Looking back at maps this must’ve been the section from Loe Bar all the way along Porthleven Sands. We soon came into the first bigger settlement at Porthleven, honestly I had no idea that’s where we were, I was just enjoying the ride one step at a time! I was with a group of maybe five guys. As we ran down the road I soon spotted a few familiar faces, Elisabeth, Snowden, and Olsen were standing on the sidewalk cheering runners on! I quickly ran over and threw them all a high five as I ran by! It was very much appreciated they came out! It must’ve been late afternoon as it was still light out. We were then escorted by race officials to the first Checkpoint at Porthleven, mile 25.
View over Porthleven Harbour from above the checkpoint, screen shot from FilmMyRun’s race coverage.
Photo from James
Back through town and then on to the trail the sun had made an appearance just in time for sunset. Soon though the views would be masked by darkness and all we’d see is the trail illuminated by our headlamps, the faint sound of crashing waves below reminding me that in some places it was a sheer drop to the sea.
Screenshot from Run4Adventure’s super rad race film, I’m in the back.
Stole this one from Facebook:
We could see light on the horizon in the distance from city lights. It was dark now and we must be approaching Marazion. I was expecting Greg and James here and planned on switching to road shoes for a long section of pavement. I’d already seen them a few times but it was a quick grab; water, food, I’m off. I ran from trail onto a road and soon I spotted them. I sat down and Greg frantically ripped off my muddy shoes and socks. Last time I had this done was at Western States 100, it’s odd, but appreciated, however I’d rather just do it myself, ha ha ha!
We could see light on the horizon in the distance from city lights. It was dark now and we must be approaching Marazion. I was expecting Greg and James here and planned on switching to road shoes for a long section of pavement. I’d already seen them a few times but it was a quick grab; water, food, I’m off. I ran from trail onto a road and soon I spotted them. I sat down and Greg frantically ripped off my muddy shoes and socks. Last time I had this done was at Western States 100, it’s odd, but appreciated, however I’d rather just do it myself, ha ha ha!
A couple photos James took, this was pitch black though when I ran through. St. Michael’s Mount is at Marazion.
After a bit of food and the shoe swap I was off. Greg had grabbed my Saucony Endorphin Speeds, a race type road shoe that I had gotten on eBay a few days ago. They had 16 miles on them from the previous owner. I’d never worn them! After a few miles of road and path along the seafront we reached the next checkpoint at Penzance. Once again we were escorted by race volunteers, known as the Arc Angels, to the checkpoint. My shoes were pretty much brand new and looked it too. A few people questioned them and I was honest with them, “got them two days ago, first time in ‘em!” They thought I was nuts, I’ve never had an issue with new shoes on race day, at Western States I took a pair of Altra Lone Peaks out of the box the morning of the race and ran the first 50 miles of the race in them! No problem! Anyway I ate some food, chatted a bit, and soon was off. As we entered the checkpoint one of the people documenting the race on film started to chat with me. I didn’t expect anything would come of this mini interview as people are always very chatty, as I am during these events. However, it showed up in the middle of a YouTube race highlights film! Really rad! That film is posted just before this post if you are interested in watching it. It’s not only fun to see yourself but it’s even better to see the race from that perspective.
Screen shot from YouTube, Run4Adventure’s rad race video, right before my “interview!”
Out of Penzance checkpoint (mile 39), back to the seafront, and more road running, it’s dark but we’re in a city so there’s a lot of light. At Newlyn I came upon James and Greg where I swapped back to my Saucony Peregrine 11 ST trail shoes in preparation for more off road and also the most difficult section of the race beyond Pendeen. Off into the darkness as we leave civilization behind. A steady breeze had begun earlier as we started to approach the end of the Cornwall Peninsula, but before that, I was anticipating the Minack Theatre stairs. Everyone had talked about how bad they were so was expecting some insanely steep and relentless staircase. We got to it and I was kind of disappointed, they honestly weren’t that big of a deal. I wanted to see this crazy, relentless, uneven, Shel Silverstein ascent of death! Nope. Up we went on some uneven slabs that zip zagged a bit and soon we topped out into the car park where I spotted James who gave me water and food, off I went to Land’s End, Checkpoint 3.
All I remember was darkness. Nothing really stands out. Soon you could see a building in the distance. It had to have been Land’s End, mile 55. For the tip of Cornwall, and of the UK, all I saw was a glowing hotel surrounded by night. I guess I’ll have to come back for the views! It was a typical checkpoint stop; in, food, water, hang out a bit, and off into the dark. On the north coast of Cornwall that breeze was cold and noticeable, somewhere along I put on another shirt but when the terrain slowed me to a walk I was getting cold. One thing I remember from the entire north coast was that breeze, night and day, I shivered. I regret not putting on more clothes. I should’ve put on another warmer layer, I carried extras in my friggin’ pack, had a crew with a bag of stuff, and all I did was put on my rain jacket. Mistake.
All I could see was the lit up building, I had no idea the coast was right there!
Into the black once again and at some point it became Saturday, January 29! Couldn’t see anything. You could hear the waves crashing against the rocks below, feel the wind and mizzle, otherwise just dark outside of the light from the headlamps. Soon I came into Pendeen, the final crew point before the most technical and remote part of the course. I saw some crews there and said hi to some folks, but just kept on running. At the end of the race James informed me that I just ignored him and ran on by! I don’t remember seeing him and I guess didn’t need anything! Funny nonetheless!
The next section to Zennor was much more technical. Up until here it was rolling singletrack, a few muddy bogs, paths, pretty nice running. Now it was uneven wet rocks, scrambling over huge talus, mud, just no consistency at all. I think with experience it was runnable but you needed to know how grippy the wet rocks were and without ever running here I assumed they were all slick and ready to dump me over the cliff! We rambled on. I had been running with another guy off and on for much of the night. Working together to not get lost, we were both worried about the navigation. Honestly looking back on it the nav wasn’t too bad, but it’s good to be with someone anyway for safety and conversation.
I saw some lights on a ridge up ahead. Must be Zennor, mile 72. This crew point was a half mile walk in for the crews. It looked like there was a ravine between us and them as I could see some runner headlamps down below yet ahead. As we picked our way through the rocks I commented on how the top woman should likely be catching us soon. On the opposite side of the ravine I spotted a headlamp floating effortlessly along the trail, sure enough, there she was! You could tell she’d trained on this type of terrain! At Zennor I remember chatting for a bit with my crew and some other crews as well. Laughing at the idiocy of running these events. Speaking briefly with one of the UK’s top ultra runners who was crewing the top woman. High on running trails all night long. This is possibly why we do this. These moments of camaraderie where everyone is having loads of fun at 3am in the drizzly cold!
Into the dark one last time, I’d ignored my watch the entire race and any idea of time or distance had been lost. I just knew I’d likely see people every 7 or 8 miles with food, water, and smiles and that’s all I cared about. Next stop St. Ives and a main and final checkpoint.
Soon it was light and we were returning to civilization yet again. We strolled into St. Ives, mile 78. The beaches were insane, the community so different from what I’d experienced in the UK. Running through town soon being escorted to the checkpoint. Most of the checkpoints were in town and honestly very confusing to get to so it was super nice to have people show you the way. All the volunteers were super friendly and helpful. Even remembering you from earlier checkpoints! I was running on my own now but had caught up to some other people that I’d been going back and forth with for the entire race. After St. Ives we stayed in civilization and meandered along the coast and inland around a fairly deep cove/port in Hayle. It was flat, paved roads, traffic. Not too much fun but soon bumped into my crew again and then back to the trails. I say trails however we were slightly inland from the relentless and beautiful sandy beaches.
A few photos from James of St. Ives:
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Inland meant sand dunes. Through Gwithian I was with a group of four including myself and we had entered the Dunes of Doom. A short section of sand dunes with trails everywhere making navigation very difficult. You were not allowed to run on the beach you had to stay on the coast path that went through the dunes. A couple guys had ran it before and supposedly knew the correct way, it was a shit show, but we made it. Funniest part was one guy jokingly said we’ve got nearly £3000 of gps watches between us and all of them the battery had died! So, zero navigation! This was a mistake I’d made that next time I’ll fix. I kept my nav on for the entire race. I didn’t need it on and it killed my battery at 78 miles! Now, being more comfortable with the course I wouldn’t be so worried except at certain points.
Fueling up while meeting James and Greg
I believe these are just past the dunes. The wind kept blowing my hood up over my hat, it was super annoying!
Through the dunes and onto the final bit along the North Cliffs. It was easy running, gradual hills, with a few ups and downs here and there, not too bad. The footing was solid for the most part on wide paths overlooking the sea. Probably could wear road shoes from St. Ives onward. At Godrevy we paused briefly to check out some seals below then continued on. The cold breeze continued to give chills.
One of “the Bitches,” photo taken from Facebook
Closer to the end there were a few big up and down sections going through coves. Uneven slab stair cases zig zagged or went straight down then back straight up from small coves. My legs felt pretty good on these still. I was cranking the uphill sections power hiking at full speed. I think I remembered there were three of these giant drops that people called “the bitches.” Probably because they are so late in the race. On the final climb my knee started to act up. I attempted to get it mobile but no luck. Maybe the steep drops trashed it, but it wasn’t allowing me to run. I had only a few miles left and soon was being overtaken by people. I likely was pushed out of the top ten due to being reduced to a walk. Yes, I was disappointed but by this time in a 100 miler you just want to finish. I hobbled in. One last giant descent, I believe this was Sally’s Bottom, then into Porthtowan. Soon I saw race officials directing me were to go. Supposedly there was one last big climb up to the finish.
I limped my way along as best as I could and soon was turning onto a newish looking singletrack that went steeply uphill. I gave a thumbs up to a mountain biker and soon was high stepping up one last wooden step onto flat grass. I hobbled a bit more until I could seen the finish and then of course did my best to run in!
I had completed what is known as the UK’s hardest and most competitive winter ultra. I finished in 17th place in about 27:08.
What a fantastic event. So we’ll organized. Super friendly people. The course was great as well. Also super fun to have a crew and to reconnect with old friends! Rarely do I consider doing a race again but this is definitely one I’d do again! Next post will likely be a follow up on the race.
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