Paddy Buckley Round Recce

Snowdon Massif

The Paddy Buckley recce was as expected, a blast! Kind of disappointed I didn't get to do the whole thing but the remaining section is very do able alone if I decide to find the time. The two very long and tough days were pretty much just route finding and putting in the miles and vert.

I arrived in North Wales on Friday night at about 8 pm. Darkness was just beginning to fall and I was still able to see where I was. I drove through Betws-y-Coed, the start of the previous race I had done up here, and was at least a bit familiar with the area. A short drive on and everything opened up into more mountainous terrain. I could see Snowdon, the highest point in Wales, and soon was following  steep switchbacks up towards it. I felt like I was in Colorado passing through tiny old towns and following narrow winding roads. I finally topped out at a pass with a few buildings and limited parking, I began descending then  I soon realized that was Pen-y-Pass and the hostel I was staying at! After a half mile of no where to turn around I was able to and  headed back up.

driving into the mountains

I knew parking was an issue here but dumped my car and payed the 10 pound fee without thinking. I just wanted to be settled. I went inside the rugged looking old building and inside was like a hotel! This hostel had been fixed up and was immaculate, it even had a bar and restaurant! No surprise I guess, Pen-y-Pass looked to have access to at least three shorter popular hiking routes up Snowdon, makes sense to sell food to people!

I attempted to check in and see if anyone was here yet. I would only recognize one of the four other guys and had never met the others outside of e-mail conversations. I rattled off their names to the guy working the front desk until we found who booked the room, Nathanael Booker. It looked like no one was here yet and I couldn't check in without Nathanael. Not that I drink much but at least there was a bar.

ironic finding this in North Wales! I spent a great deal of time in Canyon Country!

I found a place to sit and decided to get a beer. I hardly drink any more, probably my first beer in a few months, but figured it’s not really coffee time. I had another and looked at the books on offer. I laughed as I picked up and started reading a book on the geology of canyon country in the USA! I decided to order some food and another beer. I really didn't want to spend any money since we had food but whatever I guess. I had a solid buzz on though drinking 8 percent beers so I could justify the food! I haven't really quit drinking it's just that there is no one here I enjoy drinking with. Most people around me here drinking alcohol seems to bring out anger and resentment versus the fun and stupid smiles, so I opt to not take part. Besides, with little kids I feel there is no place for being intoxicated.
After waiting a hour and half a couple guys showed up, fortunately Nathanael, and also my friend Neil. I worked with Neil at the outdoor shop in Birmingham. He was a good guy and the only person there that actually climbed and skied. When I did my first 50 miler at the North Downs Way 50 he was living nearby and stopped by to cheer me on, pretty cool of him. He's an actuary for an insurance company in Zurich now. He hates it despite living in the Alps. He said it's very easy, very boring, and pays a lot, but extremely unfulfilling. So, he's planning on quitting and is training to be a helicopter pilot with dreams of working in the mountains.

After a few short hellos we were booked in and getting ready for bed, everyone having had long days. We had a private room with two bunk beds. We'd use a communal toilet, showers, and planned on eating in the communal kitchen which comprised of four separate fully stocked "kitchens" (sink, fridge, freezer, dishes, etc. stove, oven, microwave) and an eating area through another door. The facilities were basic but in very nice condition. Many of these hostels families use instead of hotels and they're far cheaper.

We stuffed a shoe in the door so one of the guys arriving late could get in. The fifth decide to drive up in the morning.

We slept well and woke at 7am or so. No hurry really. We got what little gear we were bringing; basic ultrarunning kit I'd raced with, food, and water, and went to the kitchen to have breakfast. Plans changed a bit due to snow up high which was going to possibly melt off during the day. We decided to do the lower elevation section first. Capel Curig to Aberglaslyn.

first few tops

post hole fun

After a little patience shuffling of cars to save money on parking and setting up our car shuttle back from the finish we were off. The temps were cool, the sky partly cloudy, and wind up high cold. No precip in sight which was unheard of here in Wales! We headed up a rocky trail and soon were winding through moss covered woodland, I remembered these crazy looking forests from the the last time I raced here, beautiful and calming. As our elevation climbed we were soon in rolling grassy clumped moorland. It looks like fields of over sized bunch grasses but is bog. The cold water seeped into out shoes which wouldn't dry out all day. The bogs were relentless and unpredictable. Most of the time maybe ankle deep but when you saw a creek type flow you had to be careful. Dan, the guy who drove up in the morning, attempted to jump over one as you do and sunk in up to his waist!

Dan hauling himself out of the bog

It was slow going through the grassy inconsistent footing relentlessly climbing up and tagging "bumps" of hills that were GPS way marked as the official route. The terrain wasn't too steep, you were just always going up or down. Being off trail the downs weren't as fast as one would expect. Long, some of them, but hopping hidden rocks and bunches of grasses isn't quick work, and add in the occasional snow field of breakable crust.

The view appeared to be just rolling hills but soon they exposed huge drop offs into slate quarries abandoned over 100 years ago with distant views of the sea. I recognized sections of the Snowdonia 50 I had run previous. The quarries were open pit mines carved in to the hills that also had a plethora of underground tunnel systems bored deep into the earth, many of which are open to exploration. The remnants of building foundations were everywhere, built with carefully laid and stacked stone. The bluish black slate being so durable appeared recently built with construction abandoned, but the demeanor of the Welsh weather gave it a feel something very old and out of Game of Thrones. I love it up here.

Quarry down below, the far high points we dropped out packs at

We crossed a pass through a quarry and were on a trail, the pace quickened for a change and we traversed a narrow stony path built into a hillside. Soon we dropped our packs for a short but steep out and back section to bag another peak.

old quarry buildings, this is in the above photo at the pass

fun trail to the out and back

We crossed back over the pass and up to the final two tops on the map. A little technical scrambling and we were on the final descent to the car at Aberglaslyn. It went on forever but was fast and not so technical you had to slow your pace, fun running to finish off a wet boggy day. Soon we were on an old farm track littered with rocks, ruts, and puddles. Choosing the fastest line reminded me of mountain biking in Moab, planning ahead to make it down without tripping or keeping a smooth flow. Off the track and onto pavement. A narrow lane with sparse houses led to a busier road and shortly we were at the Aberglaslyn parking lot. Around 23 miles and 8,000 feet of climbing.

We were all pretty spent and ready to be done. A short drive, a little shuffling of cars to accommodate parking and soon we were showered and eating chili that one if the guys brought with in the communal dining area. No beers, no celebrations, just shower, eat, sleep. We had another bigger day tomorrow.

After a quick breakfast we were pretty much ready to go. Not too much to carry in all reality so prep time was minimal which is nice. It's great to be with people who are organized and ready to roll with the task at hand. Climbers are like that, which most of these guys were. They'll skip the party in order to focus on the goal, early to bed early to rise when needed, time is of great value to the overall experience.

One guy opted out of the second day's run so he dropped us off where we finished the day before at Aberglaslyn and would be picking us up in Llanberis at the end of the route. He had a beautiful day to sit around and read or do nothing, the morning was misty and cold but blue skies were expected, I was partially jealous. Sometimes when I'm driving to an ultra I think to myself, "I should be driving to Cornwall with a surfboard, not to run for 20 hours!"

We headed up of course through moss covered hardwood forest. Creeks flowed seemingly in every direction as we meandered back and forth on and off the path through the trees to find the easiest route. We popped out of the forest and into moorland. It was nice to have warm dry feet for the first 20 minutes, so much for that, the cold of the bog water seeped into my shoes soaking my socks yet again. The grassland was hilly and strewn with stone fences going in all directions. Remnants of sheep herder stone huts overlooked the valleys below.

old hut remains

The wind was cold as we hiked straight up steep grass slopes into the dense fog towards the first top, Bryn Banog. Before ascending into the white fog looking back down you could see the coast and sun beams attempting to pierce the clouds. This was by far the steepest section we'd done, the winds grew stronger as we climbed higher and became more exposed. We finally hit the ridgeline, wandered about hitting the correct GPS points and kept moving trying to keep warm. Down we went to escape the cold, lower we were greeted with the sun and more boggy moorland only to ascend into the clouds again.

a lot steeper than it looks, cold too!

really fun descent in the background

Up to the top to bag Moel Hebog and down again a long grassy slope. Some scrambling at the bottom and the weather was finally breaking. The wind however was still cold, but at least the sun made up for it. An easy couple waypoints led to a really fun descent. A steep, rocky, chiseled out route followed the ridge down. It almost looked like a trail, maybe it was, but any trail maintenance was obsolete here. Cherry picking our way down choosing the quickest line we jumped over and through the rocks, letting loose any not cemented into the earth. We paused to peer into a couple giant holes in the rocky mountainside, likely test pits or entrances to mines. Usually this is why you bring a headlamp, many of these are deep tunnels worth exploring, unfortunately we didn't have time.

Nantlle Ridge looking towards Snowdon

Soon we were climbing up to a portion of the Nantlle Ridge, a known fell running route. The temperature was perfect and we could see a small cloud over the Snowdon Massif which held the highest point in Wales and the final major ridge we'd traverse. The section of hte Nantlle we were on went over Trum y Ddysgl, Mynydd Drws-y-coed, and Y Garn. Try pronouncing those summits! Welsh is a fascinating language and still proudly spoken by many in North Wales. To the east we had steep grass slopes, to the west rocky impassable cliffs dropped off with the sea in the distance. This was a beautiful run along the ridge.

Snowdon Massif

We dropped steeply down into the Beddgelert Forest and met with our shuttle driver for the day. There was easy access so he brought us some water to refill before we headed up to Snowdon. Speaking of water, it was odd drinking from streams here. Sheep were everywhere however no cattle which I'm assuming are the grazers that carry giardia and cryptosporidium. I never filtered water in California but Colorado and the Midwest I always did. It blew my mind that such a small place had clean water.

We crossed through some farmland and followed an old stone fence, you guessed it, up. Grassy slopes with the occasional rocky break we continued to the next couple waypoints. The good weather stuck but Snowdon was becoming covered in clouds.

heading up to Tregalan and Snowdon

Up the rocky ridge we went ascending to Tregalan. A much more defined ridge with rocky sections of scrambling, both sides dropped off at a more aggressive angle than before. Soon we hit snow and were post holing or avoiding it by hoping on rocks. More and more people were out now mainly because we were approaching Snowdon which has many routes up it, both easy and difficult. People were floundering all over in the wet snowy conditions. It wasn't dangerous, mainly just a nuisance. We hit the summit, touched the stone memorial, and got he hell out. People were everywhere. Too busy for us. One more high point to hit before descending to the sun.

heading up towards Snowdon

 We stomped through snow to hit Carnedd Ugain then went straight down until we met the Snowdon Ranger Path and a portion of the railway that can be ridden to the top in summer. Rails and trails made for fast downhill running as we maneuvered around tourists and hikers. Shortly after we gained the grassy ridgeline again, in the distance we could see Llanberis and also the final four tops we had to summit. They were easy for the most part but you never know how much vertical you'll lose in between the lumps.

On our way down we saw a coast guard helicopter practicing touchdowns on a grassy knoll. Pretty cool. The North Wales mountains can be a very nasty any time of the year and mountain rescue is called out fairly often it sounds. The final few miles were nothing spectacular other than the finally of a another fantastic big day out. One long grassy descent into farms, neighborhoods, and finally the main street in Llanberis. We sat along the road enjoying the sun waiting for everyone to catch up and also for our shuttle. Around 23 miles adn 12,000 vertical feet. A doozy.

Llanberis High Street

We wandered into town and got food at Pete's Eats, a long time favorite of "hill walkers" and climbers after a long day out. We ate, drove back to the hostel, I grabbed my stuff and said my farewells. It was a shame that I couldn't do the final day or I can't join in for the full Paddy Buckley Round attempt but it sure was nice to hang out with some mountain folk in the mountains. I felt normal for once.

I'll hopefully be back on my own to finish the route and fingers crossed these guys get in touch for the Scottish version, The Ramsay Round, in the future.

The photos really don't do this place justice. It's very difficult to show the expanse of the area. It's odd also as it's still a really small place. Most of the photos you see terrain we either ran early in the day or did later in the day. This is definitely my favorite place in the UK and hope to be back again.Sorry about typos, formatting, and the lack of improving photo quality (you'll notice the couple I did do on Instagram). It takes a huge amount of effort just to type this with kids running around!                       

        

Paddy Buckley Recce Weekend!

Quick update. Not been running nearly as much as I'd like due to a bit of plantar fasciitis but still doing alright. I think it came on from my weight routine. Too much to soon. Shame as I was loving doing it. So I've taken a step back and been trying to work out this nasty knot I've got in my calf.

Tonight I leave for North Wales to run 2/3 of the Paddy Buckley Round. Couldn't stay through Monday to do the final 1/3 but I'll take what I can get. I'm really psyched, just hope we have decent weather. There's a reason why world class mountaineers train up there in the winter, the conditions can be horrible. Currently there's snow up high but it looks to be not too bad as does the forecast.

We're staying at a hostel in Pen y Pass just below Snowdon, the highest point in Wales, and about dead center of the entire route. We're planning to start Saturday at Aberglaslyn (Nantmoor) in the south west and run to Llanberis in the north west. Then Sunday Llanberis to Capel Curig which is in the north east. This MAP shows those points. I wanted to show a map that is a bit more detailed because some sections are really rugged and it's not really running and more like climbing along exposed ridges but didn't really have time too. Dig around on the web for images if you like!       

Been nearly a month since my last post! Didn't realize that! Well running has been going alright, just trying to find that balance of running and sleep. I know I'm not sleeping enough and it hit me last night. After a busy day at work and working in 16 miles of running by waking early, run commuting, and a lunch break run I got home and was wrecked. I went to bed at 815 and was very happy I did!

I woke at 350 am after a really good night's sleep in the hopes of running 20 miles before 7 am but from the get go I didn't feel well. Just tired overall. I figured I'd wake up and feel better but that never happened.  I opted out at 15 miles so can't complain. Probably a good decision.

A little over a week ago I took a day off work and ran 20 miles. I felt great and enjoyed the day out. The best part was that afterwards I felt fine. Normally I'd expect to be super tired and hungry but I wasn't which was a good sign and definitely motivating for the up and coming Thames Path 100. I ran on trails that follow the River Severn so as far as race specificity you can't get much closer. I very comfortably ran 815 minute miles which is slow for me. Over a 100 miles, if I average 9 - 10 minute miles, I'd hopefully be in the top 10. Last year 10th averaged an 11:54 per mile pace. 2nd place ran 10 minute miles! I've always struggled with keeping it so easy, I need to really focus on it this year as it may be the missing piece of the the entire strategy.

I also started a pretty nasty weight routine for my legs. There's a couple guys who coach alpine climbers, nordic skiers, mountain runners, and ski mountaineers who recommended a killer leg routine specific to going uphill for a long time. It's mainly squats, jump squats, lunges, step ups using initially body weight but then adds weight via weight vest or backpack. I figure if I can make my legs bomb proof for the mountains I'd hope they'll be invincible on the flats. It takes about 40 minutes and I've got serious soreness a day or two after.

I've taken a step back on my upper body calisthenics. I was making good progress and started working towards one arm push ups but after a solid set of pull ups my right AC joint in my shoulder flared. It hurt enough for me to even consider a doctor visit. He pretty much told me what I already know but it was comforting to know it just needed some rest and strengthening. So I'm taking an upper body break but excited to get back at it.

JKD is trucking along. They've now started once a month black belt classes which I'm really psyched about. For the past couple months I've been helping the lower grades which has been very rewarding but it will be good to focus on some different stuff too.

Things overall are going alright on this dank dirty island. Really enjoying my hobbies and am looking forward to bettering myself as I get older.           

So I think it's safe to say I did not get picked in the Tor des Geants lottery. I have yet to receive an e-mail confirming and people are being added to the runners list. I kind of wish there was a confirmed "not in" list. I had two names in the hat this year and honestly I'm kind of glad I didn't get picked. I can hopefully assume I'll get in next year and plan ahead for it financially and with my training. This year they said if you don't get picked three years in a row the fourth year you are automatically in. With the growth of the sport it's possible this could change but either way I'll have a ton of names in the hat increasing my odds. I believe they do it similar to Western States where the number of times you're in the lotto multiplies in some fashion to increase your odds.

Jan 31st run commute into Worcester for work

Race plans! So I think I'll stay in the Thames Path 100 which is the first weekend in May. Main reason to stay is that I've already got a hotel room booked and I'll lose money by pulling out. I should be capable of finishing it which will give me 5 points towards the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc lottery and a Western States 100 qualifier. I then am most likely to add in the South Wales 100 which is mid June. This race will give me 6 UTMB points and finalize the amount I need to try for that lottery in 2020, which is very difficult to get into, much like WS100. Added bonuses: UTMB and Tor des Geants are BOTH Hardrock 100 qualifiers. Hardrock is a notorious race in Silverton, Colorado. Likely the most difficult to get in to.

Trail run during "fool's spring"

Downside to all these lotteries? What if I try for all three and I get in to all three or even two? Well as much as I'd like to do WS100 again it's very expensive with flights and I've done it. It's the first lottery of all three and if you get picked they automatically charge your credit card and there's no refund. UTMB is the second lotto, and I believe they give an option to NOT enter if you're chosen, and only lose a 10 euro fee, no big deal. The Tor is the same, you can back out and not lose anything more than a 10 euro fee. If time and money weren't an issue I could easily do WS100 and one of the other two races. However Tor and UTMB are within a couple weeks of each other so a tall order physically to do both.

I do still dream of having my kids finish WS100 around the track with me. I unfortunately may have to hope this to happen at UTMB or Tor, both races equivalent in importance to me. 

I hate to say it but WS100 I may not even take the chance despite having "lost" the lotto the past two years and having a pretty high chance of getting in. With no back out option it's just too much of a financial gamble. However UTMB and Tor I'd try for both for sure since I can back out.

evidence that the shittiest season here is at least moving on

Back to summer race plans. The South Wales 100 starts just north of Cardiff and does a loop around the Brecon Beacons. It's a tough course, 20,000 vert, but I'm familiar with the difficult sections. There's also a possibility of my family stopping by due to my sister-in-law living very near Cardiff. I'm normally alone and it would be fun to see the kids during the race. It's oddly a Friday night start which from a spectating perspective makes it convenient time-wise on Saturday, and maybe even for a daylight finish, that is just as long as the notorious Wales weather stays in check!

I acquired a -20F sleeping bag on eBay for cheap so if by chance I want to do a winter ultra, such as Arrowhead 135 or more likely Rovaniemi 150 in Finland, I've got the most expensive piece of gear covered. There was a downside to getting the bag on eBay though. It was advertised as "Mountain Hardwear Ghost (?) -40." The guy thought it was a Ghost which is indeed a -40. I assumed it was a -40 bag. It was used on Kilimajaro so was definitely an expedition bag. It arrived and and had no identifying marks on it but was in excellent condition. Only the "Mountain Hardwear 775 Down" logo and also their waterproof breathable logo "Conduit SL." The label had been cut off. I knew it was at least a -20 bag but which one? The Wraith -20, which I've owned in the past, had the model embroidered on it. This has no embroidery. I did a little googling, contacted Mountain Hardwear, and we came to the conclusion that it was a King Tut XL -20 bag. Just fine for winter ultra requirements! Great! But there's one big problem. I can't confirm 100% to someone at gear check at a race that this IS indeed what it is! Without any model numbers or names on it all I've got is a Mountain Hardwear 775 down filled, Conduit SL sleeping bag! So I guess I'll attempt to resolve that if or when the time comes.

430 am along the canal, water pipeline construction

With my training I need to start doing a long run every week, about 15 - 25 miles in order to prep for Thames Path. I'm running alright, about 50 plus mile weeks, with a couple minor injuries that I'm not too concerned about. I did however come across some training on muscular endurance used for the Tor des Geants and expedition climbing. It's a strength workout that starts with body weight and slowly adds weight via weight vest or backpack. It builds muscular endurance in the legs via squats, squat jumps, box steps, and lunge motions basically making your legs bombproof. I've already incorporated this and am excited to see the outcome. The main article on it I found was from an American who I believe finished the Tor in 13th place! He said the weight exercises made a huge difference. The coach is also very well known for training not only elite alpine climbers but also nordic skiers.

So, back at it until life throws another speed bump!

Cats are ok. But.... why is it that when the kids are asleep, you have a moment of quiet, then, and only then, they decide to show up looking for attention? Such as 4 fucking AM? Don’t they realize I get up this early because it’s the only time I have alone? 

Anyway, I feel pretty good for the most part. Still a lingering cough and sore throat. Warmer temps have helped my mental state however it’s still near freezing and dark in the morning.

Race plans are up in the air still. Tomorrow I’ll hopefully find out if I got picked for the Tor des Geants. I’m nervous, not just because it’s a crazy ass race (200 miles and nearly 90,000 feet of climbing) but because I need to tell the wife I need 6 days in Italy for a race! We’ll see. She’s normally supportive of my crazy endeavors. Back up plans are looking fun though too! 

Hooray  sinuses are no longer plugged up! Still can’t hear though. Supposedly it’s an after effect of viruses called Eustachian tube dysfunction. It can supposedly last 8-10 weeks. Thanks for nothing.

Anyway I still have  a sore throat but I’m motivating to run again. Race plans are all over the place so I’m not going to talk about them. They involve a few iterations of Thames Path 100, South Wales 100, Tor des Geants, and Cotswold Century. Mainly focusing on UTMB points and a big what if when it comes to the Tor. I’m overall tired likely due to attempting to get back to a routine and my knee has been bothering me which has me a bit worried. Mostly worried about early season races, Thames Path and the Paddy Buckley Round recce

The wife’s been running at the gym lately. Too much too soon of course, I’m expecting an injury. She’s also had a migraine type eye thing going on once afterwards. Likely low blood sugar from high heart rate and not eating before or soon enough after. So despite my recommendations of go slower, walk more or you’ll get injured, eat before and after, and describing the odd migraine sensations as a normal thing when you push your body of course I’m wrong Dr. Google is right. And of course her sister claiming to have passed out at the gym doesn’t help. If she’s indeed passed out at a gym she’d have been taken to the hospital for liability reasons. Liar.

But what do I know?!  I experience this migraine sensation over and over again in a 100 miler, I eat, it goes away I move on. I talk to people about running 6 days a week strongly recommending starting easy to avoid injury. Just another example of why I rarely help people with running who I’m close to. They don’t listen or follow what I tell them. It’s my wife, of course I will help her, I opened up a bit to try, to see if she’d listen but like everyone else in the world they want a short cut, the easy way to their goals, if they have any at all.

Hot tip, there is no easy short cut!

When I help they expect results but those results don’t come unlesss they listen and follow. When they fail or do not get the outcome they want it’s then my fault. I don’t want to be in that position so I avoid going there. Let Dr. Google and the dumb shits at RunnersWorld help you.

Still holding on to a sore throat, extremely plugged ears, losing my voice throughout the day, and a mild cough. Seems to be improving, I guess that’s a start.

Considering adding the South Wales 100 to the summer plans. It seems to line up well with other plans and the key component, it’s worth 6 point towards UTMB. If I’m successful at Thames Path and SW100 I can enter the UTMB lottery for 2020. Another thing to note is I’m in the Tor des Geants lottery. Oh, and I’m hunting down -40 sleeping bags on eBay. What’s that mean? Aspirations of Arrowhead 135.

Now I just need to start running again!